Men and Women of Chengdu

When I met Lingzi at Erma Bar, my first impression was that her big eyes held an unusually stubborn glint.

Erma is one of the bars I visit most often. Farther in lies Chengdu’s bar street, Lan Kwai Fong, one of the city’s best-known nightlife districts. Anshun Bridge connects it across the river to the Jiuyanqiao bar district, where bars and drinks mingle, and countless romances end in hotel-room trysts every day.

The bar sits beside the river. Stepping inside feels like entering a unique space that deftly blends Chinese aesthetics with modern style. A weathered wooden plaque hangs above the entrance, bearing the four calligraphic characters “Erma Tavern.” Colorful LED tubes on the walls glow with the unmistakable spirit of Chengdu: “I won’t sleep until you’re drunk, Brother Ma.”