Crazy Life (translated Documentary)

About This Novel

A surfing version of "On the Road," which won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Biography. How many ways can you describe a wave? Finnegan said, you'll never get tired of watching it. A young mind occupied by free and pure literary thoughts throws his fragile and insignificant human body into the distance of the world, plunging into the most ruthless and powerful waves again and again, looking for fear and ecstasy. Finnegan, a teenager, moved frequently due to his father's job, and was estranged from his family and had no solid friendships. He moved to Hawaii in the 1960s, at a time when society was undergoing great changes, including psychedelic drugs, rock music, the civil rights movement, sexual liberation, hippies... After leaving the orderly white world, he not only had to face the racial impact of Hawaii, but also had to deal with school bullying. Fortunately, there was the ocean outside his home, and he became obsessed with surfing at the age of 10. The dreamy surfing paradise of Honolulu became his spiritual refuge and allowed him to make friends in the surfing circle. Surfing seems to be just a sport, but for those who are obsessed with it, it is a rigorous learning process, a morally dangerous pastime, and a way to explore human beings' own limits and life ideals. "Crazy Life" is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, and a paper road movie. Despite the clamor, Finnegan finally found a way to talk to the three major life issues of "who am I", "where am I going" and "what can I achieve".

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